Ingredients

• 2 (about 1 1/2 pounds total) pork tenderloins
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 2 lemons, for serving
• from 1/2 lemon fresh lemon juice
• a splash, plus more for rubbing olive oil
• mayonnaise, to serve
• 2 pounds russet potatoes
• vegetable oil, for frying
• to taste salt and black pepper

Equipment

• Rolling pin or meat mallet
• Zip-top bags
• Deep heavy pot or deep fryer
• Candy or deep-fry thermometer
• Grill, charcoal grill, or grill pan
• Tongs

Instructions

1. Cut each pork tenderloin crosswise into 5 even pieces, leaving the thin tail ends a little longer so they even out once flattened. Slip one piece into a zip-top bag and pound it with a rolling pin or the flat of a meat mallet until it is thin and about the size of a side plate, then repeat with the rest. Flattening them this way means they cook in seconds and stay tender.
2. In a bowl, stir together the white wine, paprika, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Add the pork, turn to coat, and let it marinate for 20 to 30 minutes while you get your grill going (you want glowing coals with no open flame, or a hot gas grill or grill pan).
3. For the fries, fill a large bowl with cold water and cut the potatoes into sticks about 1 1/4 inches thick. Soak them for 5 minutes, drain and refill with fresh cold water, then soak 5 minutes more. This rinses off surface starch so the fries crisp up instead of sticking together. Drain and pat completely dry with a towel or paper towels.
4. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep heavy pot or deep fryer to 265 degrees F. Working in batches, lower in the fries and blanch for 8 to 10 minutes until soft but not browned, then lift out, drain, and spread on a tray to cool. Raise the oil to 350 degrees F (make sure it is fully hot or the fries will turn out soggy) and fry the batches again for about 3 minutes, shaking once, until deep golden and crisp. Drain, tip into a bowl, and sprinkle with sea salt.
5. The pork cooks fast, so grill it in 2 batches. Lift the escalopes from the marinade, rub lightly with olive oil, and lay them on the hot grill. Cook just 1 minute per side (expect a little flare-up); they will keep cooking off the heat, so do not overdo it or they will dry out. Pile the cooked pork on a plate and repeat with the second batch.
6. To serve, heap the fries onto plates, lay the pork on top, and pour over any juices from the resting plate so the fries soak up the flavor. Finish each with a spoonful of mayonnaise and a wedge of lemon for squeezing.