Ingredients

• 12 ounces spaghetti
• 6 large egg yolks
• 5 ounces bacon or pancetta, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) pecorino cheese, finely grated
• to taste salt
• plenty freshly ground black pepper

Equipment

• Large pot
• Large skillet
• Tongs
• Medium mixing bowl
• Box grater or microplane

Instructions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, then add about 1 tablespoon salt so the pasta seasons from the inside out.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk the 6 egg yolks with most of the grated pecorino (hold back a small handful for serving) and a generous grind of black pepper until smooth and creamy. Set it aside so it is ready the moment the pasta is done.
3. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook at a steady simmer until al dente, about 9 to 10 minutes, so it still has a little bite in the center.
4. While the pasta cooks, add the chopped bacon to a large cold skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until golden and crisp, about 6 to 8 minutes, so the fat renders out and flavors the pan.
5. Just before the pasta is done, scoop out about 1 cup of the starchy cooking water and keep it nearby, then lift the spaghetti straight into the skillet with the bacon using tongs. A little pasta water dripping in is exactly what you want.
6. Pull the skillet off the heat completely (this is the key step) and quickly pour in the egg and cheese mixture, tossing fast with tongs so the warmth of the pasta thickens the eggs into a silky sauce instead of scrambling them.
7. Loosen the sauce with a few tablespoons of the reserved pasta water, adding a splash at a time until it coats every strand and looks glossy and moist, not wet. Taste and add a pinch of salt only if needed.
8. Twirl the pasta into bowls and serve right away, topped with the reserved pecorino and more black pepper. If it tightens up before serving, a splash of hot pasta water brings back the gloss.